This is my first reconstruction of a men s pattern from alcega s tailor s pattern book, a men s doublet with a characteristic peascod belly made from silk. Bainton, cecilia and a great selection of similar new, used and collectible books available now at great prices. This is a facsimile of the 1589 edition of this book with english translation in rear appendix accompanied by scaled down pictures of the patterns. Trim placement for the skirt and bodice of cloth with puffed sleeves different than the sacqueback gown, but the trim placement would be the same. History of the spanish farthingale elizabethan costume. Numerous and frequentlyupdated resource results are available from this search. Exploring a century tailor s pattern book, by reconstructing 1 garment at a time. In the sixteenth century, it was common practice to use a forepart and. There is an english translation of the text provided in the book. The foundation is a nice, medium weight dark brown linen, and the casings are burgundy taffeta.
Recipes and techniques found in here have been tested and still work. Sep 07, 2016 after way too long here is part two of the manteo or petticoat part 1 written in 2014 can be found here, to recap here is the layout suggestion i ended up using from alecga. Im in need of a new underskirt or petticoat for my 16th century clothing. Oct 12, 2010 the patterns in period tailors books of the 16th century are more like cutting diagrams with some suggestions about how to assemble the pieces. There is also a printing of alcegas pattern book from 1580, containing some extra patterns left out of the. In it he goes on to explain to his readers that he is. Librarything is a cataloging and social networking site for booklovers. Understanding the ell is important for reproducing alcega. Not actual patterns but how to lay them out to waste the least material. In it he goes on to explain to his readers that he is using the ell from castile, also known as a bara. Men s and women s pattern diagrams from 17thcentury spain. The above item is the oldest book on pottery production. Jun 12, 2010 alcega, tailors pattern book some of the translated passages give hints as to how patterns were arrived at.
This landscapeshaped printed work is the first treatise on tailoring published in spain. This rare collection of 5 tailoring patterns was originally p. How do you reproduce the alcega farthingale pattern. This book revealed some of the secrets of the trade for middle class clothing. Alcega, tailors pattern book some of the translated passages give hints as to how patterns were arrived at. Janet arnolds queen elizabeths wardrobe unlockd was also used as an ancillary source. The perforation system was partially derived from tailor s markings. A 16th century inspired fashion doll une robe magnifique. The blocks include darts, seams, notches, and other pertinent information. The name farthingale itself is an english corruption of the spanish verdugado, a word for the spanish word for wood, which refers to the rings of wood or willow osiers forming the rigid rings attached to the skirt. It s the second of all the patterns in the book, the first being an almost identical doublet laid out for silk which has been folded lengthways instead of crosswise as in this version. It is serviceable, but it adds a lot of bulk at the waist and it isnt very authentic in construction or materials. Alcega, tailors pattern book 1589 isbn 0896762343 facimilie edition of a patternbook from 1589, with translations, cutting diagrams, etc. The tailor s pattern book 1589 quite specific media group.
Im currently working on a project to make all the garments in alcegas tailors pattern book as rd or 12 sized miniatures. The tailors pattern book 1589 quite specific media group. Mens and womens pattern diagrams from 17thcentury spain. Nov 01, 2014 this is my first reconstruction of a men s pattern from alcega s tailor s pattern book, a men s doublet with a characteristic peascod belly made from silk. The leonfeldner schnittbuch, 1590 draping a 16th century bodice pattern the tailors masterpiecebook. In 1589, after much struggle, his book of the practice of tailoring, measuring and marking out was finally published alcega, p. Alcega states that the ell, had its source and origin in another measure called the dedo, or fingers breadth. Its the second of all the patterns in the book, the first being an almost identical doublet laid out for silk which has been folded lengthways instead of crosswise as in this version. Tailors pattern book, 1589 1999 edition open library. The decoration is based on engravings of the same style of cloak from the period. After way too long here is part two of the manteo or petticoat part 1 written in 2014 can be found here, to recap here is the layout suggestion i ended up using from alecga. However, formatting rules can vary widely between applications and fields of interest or study. As the shirt was for rapier requiring movement and to go under a fencing doublet, i did not want to gather the neck into the collar as per the bath museum shirt.
The forepart is the decorated piece of fabric, cut like a truncated cone, that shows under the open skirt of an overgown. I will give an overview of my patterning process here. Introductions in each contains an excellent overview of clothing production. In 1589, after much struggle, his book of the practice of tailoring. The skirt is entirely based on alcegas pattern and gives a distinctive backward tilt to the skirt, and quite different to the skirts on my other elizabethan dresses, which are based on rectangles, cartridge pleated into the bodice waist. The wardrobe accounts contain specific instances of various farthingales, describing the materials and colors used and some clues as to the method of. The spanish farthingale, as its name suggests, originated in spain. Dec 27, 2014 im in need of a new underskirt or petticoat for my 16th century clothing. There are quite a few cloaks of various types bohemian cloaks, clerical cloaks, herreruelo cloaks and travel. I chose a goldcolored bridal satin which, although polyester, gave me the look and structure necessary for such a garment. Emmons the above pictured books is the first published tailors pattern book.
In his dedication, to a theologian called tejada, he describes this, my small work, something brand new. Reliable information about the coronavirus covid19 is available from the world health organization current situation, international travel. It covers 23 categories of garments including men and women, the clergy, knights, tournaments, and others. This pattern produces a cone shape hoop skirt, which was common in spain and elsewhere in europe during the mid 16th century. Until mccall introduced the printed pattern in 1921, tissuepaper patterns were made with a series of perforations cut into each piece. Unfortunately can not be bought once calendarseason is over, but lots of sca folk have. It paved the way for other such works in the late 16th century and early 17th century. This is my first reconstruction of a mens pattern from alcegas tailors pattern book, a mens doublet with a characteristic peascod belly made from silk. Ive been using the same cotton broadcloth one i made back in 2005, for years now. This book, is like having someone hand you a layout diagram from a modern pattern for many many differnt items of clothing ranging from doublets. Book on geometry, practice, and patterns world digital library. J l nevinson published during the reigns of philip ii and elizabeth i of england, when spanish fashions dominated european dress. Alcega states that the ell, had its source and origin in another measure called.
Janet arnold s queen elizabeth s wardrobe unlockd was also used as an ancillary source. The thick fulled olive coloured wool is warm, and weighs a ton. Exploring the patterns by making them, as a sort of experiential archeology so to speak. I just recently finished the womens garments and am moving on to the mens.